Most people agree that the dreaded litter box may be the one unpleasant part of indoor cat existence; I'm right there with you. And there are so many different factors to consider when creating the perfect litter box space. Then you need to juggle the logistics - what is best for the cat but will also work for you? I have tried MANY different kinds of litter boxes, litter brands and types, litter mats, and box placement over the years with varying results.
So we will start with the logistics of the litter box station. Remember that I will be discussing my personal experiences and your cat may have a different opinion.
When you make a litter station for your cat, there are multiple items to consider. I will briefly go over each one in this blog entry. It will be a more information-packed post, but it is a very important topic! Please use this as an educational resource and come back at any time for a refresher! So let's get the party started!
How many litter boxes should I have?
The ideal answer = n + 1, where "n" is the number of cats. AKA - one more box than the number of cats you have. So in my house, I should have 5 litter boxes. This reduces any "peer pressure" one cat may feel and encourages fastidious litter box use.
Where do I put the litter boxes?
Cats prefer quieter areas with less foot traffic. Common places include closets, less-used bathrooms, and side rooms. Let's be real honest - no one wants to go to the bathroom when someone else is around. That being said, you want to make sure the litter box is easy to get to. It's great if you have a spare room to use as a litter station, but your cat won't appreciate it if it is stressful to get there or too far away when the urge strikes. And be mindful of noises! Your cat won't want to go to the bathroom next to the laundry area or a loud furnace.
It's a good idea to place a litter box close to your cat's favorite areas. When I'm not home (or at bedtime), the cats spend most of their time upstairs in my bedroom. I have two litter boxes just across the hall in the guest room. When I am home, we spend most of our time on the first floor. I have a smaller common area, so there is no ideal location for a litter box. As a result, I have two litter boxes on the stair landing going to my finished basement. It's only a few steps away from the first floor.
As I've said before, cats like to keep their food and water sources clean. Make sure not to place any boxes close to their eating/drinking stations.
If you have a kitten or senior cat, make sure litter boxes are in easy reach. You don't want them climbing stairs, especially into dark areas, just to try to get to the box.
What type of litter box should I buy?
There are soooooo many different types of litter boxes. The most common options include:
Hooded/Covered vs "Topless"
Open Entry vs Door Flap
High-walled (aka deep) vs Shallow
Step-in vs Climb-in (also called top entry)
Litter box size
My cats have tried them all. They prefer a topless, open entry litter box (like most cats). They don't seem to prefer a specific wall height, but I find that the high-walled boxes decrease litter scatter and minimize any accidental urine leakage (Fiona likes to urinate on the wall of the box sometimes).
The kitties seem to prefer litter boxes that they can step into rather than top-entry ones that they need to climb into. If they could stick their heads out while using the top-entry box (aka it wasn't too high), they were okay with that. So when in doubt, go topless. If a top-entry box is more appropriate for your home, make sure it isn't so deep that your cat can't see outside of it when posturing.
I feel that most of these cat preferences stem from being able to observe the surrounding environment when they are most vulnerable. When using the hooded litter boxes, each cat would stick their head out of the entrance while inside. If I had the door flap on, they would push it up so they could see. Cats are always on the lookout for potential threats.
And last but not least, size does matter. You want to make sure your cat can comfortably turn around and posture in the box. Some specialists recommend that the box measure 1.5 times the length of the cat.
The box also needs to be deep enough to lay down 2 to 3 inches of litter. If you have a large cat or multiple cats, it's best to err on the large size. When Owen outgrew his kitten litter box, he decided to turn it into a bed (after it was emptied and thoroughly disinfected, of course).
What type of litter do I use?
Clumping vs Non-clumping?
Clay vs other?
Scented vs Unscented?
Litter additives?
Kittens learn to use the litter box around 4 to 5 weeks of age. So most of the time, they are at least partially litter box trained before they are adopted. When it comes to very young kittens, I prefer to use non-clumping litters with large particle size such as Yesterday's News (made from recycled newspaper). These litter pieces will not get stuck in your kitten's paws and you don't need to be concerned about them ingesting the material. You regularly dump and replenish the litter. So this is what I've used when raising tiny kittens. By the time kittens are ready for adoption, you can consider gradually switching to a different type of litter.
Most adult cats prefer clumping, unscented litter. They like soft, fine granules and often choose clay litter over some of the newer litter substrates (like corn, pine, wheat, and walnut shell). That being said, as long as the litter is soft and forms tight clumps, I've found that the actual substrate is not as big of an issue when it comes to litter preference. But if you are currently using one of these newer types of litter and having trouble, try switching to clay.
Cats have an amazing sense of smell, so perfumes and other litter odors can be overwhelming for some, even if we only detect a "hint" of fragrance. There are a ton of litters on the market with floral fragrances or added deodorizers. If you've been using a scented litter and you aren't having box issues, then your cat may be one that doesn't mind the smell. But if you are having some litter box problems, try an unscented formula. Keep in mind that fragrances can exacerbate some respiratory conditions in cats, like asthma.
There are multiple litter additives on the market with purposes ranging from deodorizing to attracting cats to use the litter box. Most people don't use additives and honestly, there really isn't a reason if you are using a high quality litter and not having any issues. Many of the deodorizing additives contain baking soda to neutralize odor. This is safe to use, but some cats actually don't like the smell of baking soda. So keep that in mind! I have added plain baking soda to litter in the past and my cats didn't even notice. I have not purchased an additive to try since I haven't needed one.
Dr. Elsey's makes a litter additive called Cat Attract specifically for cats going outside of the box. It is a blend of herbs that you mix in with your regular litter to make the box more appealing. I haven't used the product personally, but I have recommended it with good success.
Regardless of the type of litter you (or your cat) choose, make sure it is low dust. Not all clumping clay litters are created equal! And the same goes for the newer substrates. Find a brand that specifically states that it is a low dust formula. I have found the Frisco and Dr. Elsey's clay litters to be low in dust. Generic brands, in my experience, tend to generate much more dust.
How do I clean my litter box?
The litter box should be thoroughly cleaned at least once a month. You want to completely empty the old litter and clean the inside of the box with dish detergent and warm water. Make sure not to use any bleach or ammonia detergents since cats are very sensitive to smells.
Scoop the litter box daily. This will keep your litter fresher longer and your cat's paws cleaner. It will also make your cat happy and reduce the chance of accidents outside of the box.
Make sure to store the litter box waste in a sealed bin or outside. Not only can it grow mold or parasites in damp or humid environments (like inside a plastic bag), but the smell can deter your cat from using the box. And you don't want to smell it either. There is a product called the Litter Genie, which does an amazing job at locking in waste odors. I used it for several years. The required bag refills do get expensive though, so I DIY-ed my own waste receptacle using a Tidy Cats litter pail and kitchen trash bags. It works pretty darn well.
And then there is the million dollar question: How the heck do I prevent litter tracking?
It is called the million dollar question because I have yet to find the perfect answer. But I do have some suggestions to help keep the litter closer to the box.
Invest in a litter mat. I buy the extra large mats and place them under the opening of the litter box. This helps significantly. You want a mat that traps litter within it rather than just catching it on top. I've provided examples of two kinds at the bottom of this section.
Use a litter box with higher sides if your cat is comfortable with it.
Clean the litter box daily and refill with fresh litter as needed. This will decrease accumulation of that damp, gelatinous litter and subsequently decrease out-of-the-box paw shaking.
Litter mat suggestions:
Trapping litter mat - This mat is composed of a top layer with holes and a bottom layer to trap any litter. You simply empty the trapped litter periodically. Litter Robot sells a trapping litter mat: https://www.litter-robot.com/accessories/litter-trap-mat.html
Interwoven mesh litter mat - This mat has interwoven rubber mesh material to trap litter. You do need to shake out the mat to remove the litter, but it does an amazing job at preventing litter scatter. I have several of these mats from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017C17NCW?tag=felineliving1-20
Are there litter boxes that don't involve scooping?
There are several automated litter boxes on the market with different bells and whistles. From reviews I've read online over the years, it is worth the money to go with the newer, more expensive models. They are more effective and make your life so much betterrrrrrr.
The two most expensive automatic litter boxes are the CatGenie and the Litter Robot. Both boxes cost at least $400. The CatGenie actually hooks up to your water line and "flushes" the waste. There is no bagging or regular emptying on your part. It does require its own litter granules, which are pretty expensive. It does seem pretty darn environmentally friendly, which is pretty cool. The unit measures about 1.5 x 3 feet, so it would be way too big to fit in one of my bathrooms. I could connect it to the water line from my washing machine but as I mentioned above, the laundry room is not a great place for a litter box.
The Litter Robot is great because you can use your preferred clumping litter. That was a huge selling point for me. And the amount of litter you use is so much less than a conventional box. It is a domed, or covered litter box, but the opening is quite large and provides a great viewing angle. I am in early stages of Litter Robot box ownership, but I can tell you that I'm SO glad I tried one. I'm planning on getting a second Litter Robot once I've saved up some more money. I really am amazed at how well it works. I'll be posting a separate entry about my Litter Robot experience! If you are looking to try one, you can use my referral link for $25 off a unit: http://share.litter-robot.com/WlZsB
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